Chefchaouen
Set on a wide valley in the Rif Mountains, charming Chefchaouen has long been a
favourite with travellers. The air is cool and clear; the medina - with its bright blue walls -
is small and mangeable.
Moulay Ali ben Rachid founded Chaouen (as it was formely named) in 1471 as a base for
Riffian Berber tribes to launch attacks on the Portugese in Ceuta.
The town prospered and grew considerably with the arrival of Muslim and Jewish refugees escaping
persecution in Granada in 1494.
It was these refugees who built the whitewashed houses, with tiny balconies, tiled roofs and
patios (often with a citrus tree in the centre), which give the town its distinctive Hispanic flavour.
The pale-blue wash now so typical was only introduced in the 1930s by the Jewish refugees -
previously windows and doors had been painted green, a traditional Muslim colour.
Trekking
The Rif Mountains, bordering the Moroccan coast for about 200km, rarely reach more than 1800m, but
these are the highest peaks in northern Morocco.
The hillsides are green and magnificient. Cedars dominate the hillsides close to Chefchaouen, while
forests of pine and holm oak greow on the higher slopes.
Trekking opportunities here are good enough to draw even the most sloth-like backpacker away from the
cafés and roof terraces of Chefchaouen, if only for a few hours.
It's worth to visit a local market in de surrounding village's
Fès
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The oldest of the imperial cities, Fès is arguably the symbolic heart of Morocco. Founded shortly
after the Arabs swept across North Africa and Spain, it became the country's religious and culture
centre, shaped by each of the great dynasties and by its populations' roots in Muslim Spain and the
Arab east.
Fès has long been considered the centre of Islamic ortodoxy in Morocco (Green, the colour of Islam,
predominates on Fes walls and doors)
In Ad789, Idriss I - who founded Morocco's first dynasty - decided that oualili (Volublis)
was to small and drew up plans for a grand, new capital. He died before the plans were implemented, however,
so credit for the founding of Fès is often rewarded to his son Idriss II, who carried out the will
of his father.
Idriss II's heirs split the kingdom, but Fès continued to enjoy peace and prosperity until the 10th
century.
Over the next centuries, the fortune of Fès rose and fell with the dynasties. Civil war and famine -
incited by Berber invasions - were relieved only by the rise of the Almoravids. When that dynasty
fell from power around 1154, they fled Fèsand destroyed the city walls as they went.
It recovered its political status onluy much later, with the arrival of the Merenid dynasty around
1250. The archaeoligical legacy of the Merenids is still evident today - credited with their exquisite
medersas.
As the Merenids collapsed, successive battling dynasties were unable to retain power for any notable period,
although sultans often resided in Fès in their attempt to maintain control over the north.
Fès El-Bali
The medina of Fès el-Bali (Old Fes) is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world.
Its narrow winding alleys and covered bazaars are crammed with every conceivable sort of workshops,
restaurant and market, as wll as mosques, medersas (theological coleges) and extensive dye pits and
tanneries - a veritable assault on the senses.
When you become disoriented remember this `rule`; threaded through the labyrinth are a few
`main` streets that will eventually bring you to a gate or landmark. Just follow the general
flow of people.
If all else fails, you can always pay an eager kid a few dirham to guide you to a familiar landmark.
Medersa Bou Inania
The Medersa was buildt by the Merenid sultan Bou Inan between 1350 and 1357.
The zellij, muqarna (plaserwork) and wood carving are amazingly elaborate, and vieuws from the
roof are also impressive.
Different from other theological colleges this medersa contains an elaborate mosque complete
with a minaret.
Medresas usually have some form of prater hall; referred to as a masjid (mosque),
but it's normally of modest dimensions, perhaps with a simple mihrab (nich indicating the
direction of Mecca).
Some explain that the Medersa Bou Inania required a larger-scale mosque because there was none other
nearby at the time.
Tanneries
Tanneries provide perhaps the greatest illustration of how resolutely some parts of Morocco have
clung to practices developed in medieval times.
Skins are still carried by donkey to the tanner's souq, tanning and dyeing vats are still constructed
from mud brick and tile, the tannery craftsman and apprentices are still organised according to medieval
guild principles
Leather-making is undoubtedly one of its smelliest. Among the exotic ingredients are pigeon poo, cow
urine, fish oils, animal fats and brains, chromium salts and sulphuric acids.
You will be invited into any one of the leather shops lining the street.
They all have terraces overlooking the tanners' pits. Try to get here in the mourning, when the pits
are wash with coloured dyes. A salesperson will give an explanation of the processes involved;
a small tip - or purchase - will be appreciated.
Mellah
In the 14th century Fès el-Jdid (New Fès) became a refuge for Jews, thus creating a
mellah, or Jewish quarter.
The records suggest that the move was orchestrated to offer the Jews greater protection. And they
did enjoy the favour of the sultan, repaying him with their loyalty during conflict.
Few Jewish families live here now, but their houses with windows and balconies looking onto the
streets, are marked contrast to Muslim styles.
A gatekeeper can direct you to the nearby Ibn Danan Synagoge, which was restored with the aid
of Unesco in 1999.
There are no set opening times, but someone will usually let you in and point out the main features.
Meknès
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From the winding, narrow streets of the medina to the grand buildings of the imperial city ,
Meknès reflects its heritage as the one-time centre of the Moroccan sultanate. It has been even
dubbled the Versailles of Morocco. Had the enormous building projects of Moulay Ismail
survived the ravages of time, this metaphor might not seem so extravagant.
It wasn't until the 17th century that Meknes really came into its own. The founder of the Alawite dynasty,
Moulay ar-Rashid died in 1672. His successor and brother Moulay Ismail made Meknes his capital, from
were he would reign for 55 years.
Ismail endowed the city with 25km of imposing walls with monumental gates and an enormous palace complex
that was never completed. Ismail's death in 1722 also struck the death knoll for Meknès. The town resumed
its role as a backwater, as his grandson Mohammed III (1757-1790) moved to Marrakesh.
The focus of Place el-Hedin is the hudge gate of Bab el-Mansour; once the main entrance to
the imperial city.
The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail is a peaceful and beutifully displays Moroccan architecture and
craftmanship.
Heri es-Souani & Agdal Basin
Nearly 2 km southwest of the mausoleum, Moulay Ismail's immense granaries, Heri es-Souani
were ingeniously designed. Tiny windows, massive walls and a system of underfloor water channels kept
the temperatures cool and air circulating.
The granaries, however, didn't store food for humans, but grain and hay to feed Ismail's 12.000 horses.
The first few vaults have been restored, but those beyond stand in partial ruin, row upon row.
Immediately north of the granaries lies an enormous stone-lined lake, the Agdal Basin.
Fed by a complex sytem of irrigation channels some 25km long, it served as both reservoir for the
Sultan's gardens and a pleasure lake.
Volubilis
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In the midst of a fertile plain about 33 km north of Meknes, Volubilis is site of the
largest and best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco.
Excavations indicate that the site was originally settled by Carthaginian traders in the 3rd century BC.
One of the Roman Empire's most remote outpost, Volubilis was annexed in about AD 40
The site's most impressive monuments were buildt in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, including the Triuphal
Arch, Capitol, Baths and the Basilica.
The most amazing features are the stunning mosaics, witch have been left in their original locations.
Look out for:
The House of Venus with one of the finest mosaics - Diana Bathing
The house the Desultor: The Desultor was an athlete of a sport included by the Greek in the
Olympic Games. In this event, the Desultor must jump from his horse or car and get back on it immediatly.
This mosaic is a parody of this event. The athlete is naked, he riding backside a donkey, he is holding
a cathare, drinking glass received for honnor. Another victory sign is the scarf, in the wind behind
the athlete.
Labours of Hercules
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In this mosaic, you can see the twelve labor that Hercule (Heracles) did to find his liberty.
Heracles' first labor was to kill the menacing Nemea Lion; Heracles strangled the creature and
carried it back to Mycenae.
The second task was to overcome the nine-headed snake known as the Hydra (Lernea Hydra in Greek);
Heracles' cousin Iolaos helped him out by burning the stumps of the heads after Heracles cut off the heads;
since the ninth head was immortal, Heracles rolled a rock over it.
The third task was to find the golden-horned stag and bring it back alive; Heracles followed the
stag around for one full year; he finally captured the stag and took it back alive.
The fourth labor was to capture a wild boar that terrorized Mycenae's people; Heracles chased the
boar up a mountain where the boar fell in to a snow drift, where Hercules subdued it.
The fifth task of Heracles was to clean the Augean stables, where thousands of cattle were housed,
in a single day; Heracles diverted two rivers so that they would flow into the Augean stables.
The sixth labor was to destroy the man-eating Stymphalian birds; Heracles drove them out of
their hiding places with a rattle and shot them with poison-tipped arrows.
The seventh task was for Heracles to capture a Cretean savage bull; Heracles wrestled it to the
ground and took it back to King Eurystheus.
The eighth labor was to capture the four man-eating mares of Thrace; Heracles threw the master of
the mares to them; the horses became very tame, so Heracles safely led them back to Mycenae.
Heracles' ninth labor was to obtain the girdle of the fierce Amazon warrior queen, Hippolyta;
Hippolyta willingly gave her girdle to Hercules, but Hera convinced the Amazons that Heracles was trying
to take Hippolyta from them, so Heracles fought them off and returned to his master with the girdle.
The tenth labor was to capture the cattle of the monster, Geryon; Heracles killed Geryon, claimed
the cattle, and took them back to the king.
The eleventh task was to get the golden-apples of the Hesperides; Heracles told Atlas that if he
would get the apples for him, he (Heracles) would carry the heavens for him; when Atlas returned from his
task he didn't want to take the heavens back from Heracles but Heracles tricked him into taking back the
heavens.
The final (twelfth) labor of Heracles was to bring the three-headed watchdog of the underworld,
Cerberus, to the surface without using any weapons; Heracles seized two of Cerberus' heads and the dog
gave in. Heracles took the dog to his master, who ordered him to take it back.
Finally, after twelve years and twelve tasks, Heracles was a free man.
